As controversial as it is strong, Asafetida Powder has a long history of being equally loathed and loved.
Raw hing has a pungent scent, best described as a mix between onions and sulfur. Because of this, westerners gave it the nickname "Devil's Dung." Even its official English name Asafetida (also spelled Asafoetida) is unflattering, since Asa is a Latinized form of the Persian word azā, which means "resin," and the Latin foetidus means "smelling, fetid." But those who study Ayurveda call it "God's Food" because it's so dang good for you. In fact, numerous studies have been done on its health benefits.
So which is right? Is hing shocking and gross and best avoided by those in the west attempting to cook Indian cuisine? Or is it aromatic, delicious, and oh so good for you?
The truth is a little bit of both.
If improperly produced or stored, hing can small fetid. The majority of store bought hing is cut with wheat and other anti-caking agents, irradiated to extend its shelf life, and has preservatives added.
Ours is aromatic and pleasant, 100% raw, non-irradiated, and only has the barest amount of edible gum (gum arabic) added to make it a usable powder. Yes, it still smells appropriately pungent. Just like any other strong spice (think: onions, garlic, coriander, etc), the scent mellows when you cook it. Additionally, properly cooked hing becomes an accent to the dish that melds all the other spices together beautifully.
Because of this, Indians use asafetida powder early in the cooking process. They add ghee to a hot pan, melt it, then stir in a pinch of hing which disappears into the oil, giving it a mellow garlic-like scent. Then they add the other aromatics to the tadka.
'Tadka' is known as tempering in English. This technique is used to quickly roast whole or ground spices in oil or ghee in order to release their essential oils and build their aroma.
When you add a pinch of hing to your tadka, it's like magic. The pungent smell dissipates and is replaced by a beautiful warm aroma, and that aroma is the secret weapon of Indian food. The presence of asafetida supercharges every other spice in the dish, making them all work together like a symphony of savoriness.
Rather than being the "Devil's Dung," it's far more likely that hing is just misunderstood. If properly produced, it shouldn't smell disgusting when raw, just strong. And when properly used in cooking, it shouldn't make the dish bitter, just flawlessly aromatic.